The theory of making marmalade is that the citrus fruit should have long, slow simmering until the peel is very soft. I test it by cutting it with the wrong end of a fork or spoon. Only after that is the sugar is added and the boil increased until a set is reached.
The hard, traditional way is to cut up the peel when it is raw and tough, using the quick method you cut it up when it is cooked and soft.
This recipe makes a fresh tasing marmalade.
Ingredients for about six 1 lb jars:
700g (one and a half lb) Seville oranges
one lemon
1·4 kg (3 lb) sugar
2 litres (3 and a half pints) plus 500 ml (1 pint) of water
You will also need a large pan with a capacity of at least 7 litres (12 pints), a long handled wooden spoon, some clean jars and a packet of 'jam pot covers'.
Cut the oranges and lemon in half across the equator. Take out any pips you can locate and reserve them in a bowl of at least 500 ml (1 pint) capacity. Boil the smaller amount of water in a kettle and pour over the pips and leave to soak.
Put the halves into a pan with 2 litres (3 1/2 pints) of water and simmer for several hours until very soft (check the lemon as well as the oranges).
The whole operation can be left at this point until later, or the next day.
When the fruit halves are cool enough to handle put them in a separate bowl leaving the juice in the pan. Cut them up to the desired size. Remove and discard any stray pips found during this process. Return the pieces to the pan and put the pan back on the heat.
Tip the reserved pips in water into a strainer over the pan. If you have left them over night a jelly will have formed. I rinse as much of this as I can through the strainer using the hot liquid in the pan. I suspect this is quite unnecessary as the marmalade sets perfectly well if the 'pip juice' is forgotten!
Put a plate into the bottom of the fridge so that it is cold for testing the set later. Wash the jars that you are going to use and put them, upside down, into a very low oven to dry and warm up.
When the contents of the pan is boiling add the sugar in two or three lots, stirring until it is dissolved. Now increase the heat and boil hard. Stir occasionally to make sure the mixture is not sticking and burning.
When the spoon begins to feel sticky, test to see if the marmalade has set, by putting a drop onto the cold plate. It is done when, after a minute or two, a wrinkly skin forms when you push your finger into it. It can take as much as 40 minutes to reach the setting point.
Leave to cool for a few minutes. Stand the hot jars on a board or a thick newspaper and ladle the marmalade into the jars with a teacup. Cover with wax circles, wipe the outsides of the jars if necessary, and leave until quite cold before putting on any further covers.
A variation is 'Oxford' marmalade. This matures to a rich, dark colour.
The ingredients in this case are:
450g (1 lb) Seville oranges
a lemon
1·75 litres (3 pints) plus 500 ml (1 pint) of water
1·4 kg (3 lb) sugar
a large tablespoonful of black treacle which is added along with the sugar.
These quantities make about five 1 lb jars
